Day 27 - A heck of a light show

6.30am arrival in Hong Kong and by 7.30am we are on a bus to downtown, having cleared customs, baggage and sort out a shuttle bus. How? Well, in the first case, the Chinese have kept customs queues low by the cunning tactic of having enough officers to handle the incoming traffic. Unlike, say, the US and the UK who believe that the appropriate response to a incoming 747 full of passengers is to all piss off on a coffee break.

Baggage was already waiting for us and then on to find a shuttle bus to our hotel. Another exhibition of efficiency - we were pondering the airport map to figure out where we needed to go when someone walked over, led us to their desk and produced a map and indicated the desk we need to get to. Having found that (only accosted twice by taxi drivers plying for trade) the man behind the desk phoned the hotel, confirmed the reservation, put the cost on the bill, gave us a sticker and led us to a waiting area. (Again, in the UK, he would have pointed out the waiting area rather than take us the twenty or so feet to it.)

From that area a guy in an orange t-shirt led us on a long walk through the airport to the shuttle bus terminus and then called out hotels. I was slightly wary beforehand of how we would find our way around Hong Kong, having truly stepped out of our comfort zone. However, it is impossible not to be impressed by the staggering level of organisation and efficiency involved.

Having said that, if everyone wasn't so organised I am convinced the place would grind to a halt. The place is quite, quite manic. The drive from the airport was pretty memorable, if only for the bus driver manouevring his vehicle through gaps that continually redefined the phrase "hairs breadth". Rule #1 of driving in Hong Kong - You Do Not Leave A Gap. Ever.

We are staying at the Renaissance Harbour View and have treated ourselves to the Club Level. For this, we get a special card to give us access to the top levels. (Top Travellers Tip: It costs more, but you get complimentary breakfast buffet, unlimited tea/coffee and in the afternoon, complimentary afternoon tea and complimentary early evening drinks. This would cost you in a normal room.)

The room is quite big by HK standard, though small by just about anywhere else but the bed is so amazingly comfortable. Paying top whack also gets you a level of service verging on obseqious - we even got a special honeymoon cake and bottle of wine. The views out over the harbour are amazing, especially at night.

We took a trip out to the Jade Market. We jumped on the MTR, which is spotless and smooth before popping out above ground nearby. I managed to head the wrong way which meant we discovered a shopping centre containing nothing by electronic stuff - it was an accident, honest! Several huge displays of laptops, huge plasma TVs... I daren't look too closely or else I would get dragged in. Prices ranged from the bargainous to the spectacularly bargainous as well.

I extricated myself from its clutches and we headed to the Jade Market. Basically a covered hall full of stalls, Caroline was in her element. The stall holders were slightly pushy, though not overbearingly so and Caroline spend a good time sitting and trying on a number of jade necklaces and bracelets. The wallet didn't get away without damage, but Caroline assures me that the equivalent in the UK would be at least double, if not more, so I defer to her expertise. Besides, the bracelet is really nice.

We wandered back to the ferry, experiencing the bustling streets of Kowloon. And I mean, bustling. A hive of activity whre the ground floor of every single building is shop of some sort. I'd love to bring a Health and Safety fanatic to Hong Kong and take them on a tour of the streets - their head would explode with indignation. (Same with a member of Greenpeace and come to think of it, I reckon just abut any do-gooder would have real problems with Hong Kong.)

This can-do, will-do attitude is what makes the place work. You just get on with it. Poultry might be hanging on a street corner, but it is fresh and if you cook it that night, you probably won't die. Same with fruit and just about any product you care to mention. Hong Kong is built upwards, huge clusters of massive 50-floor towers to house the populace, washing hanging out of windows above the shops. It is dizzying and fascinating at the same time.

We made it to the famous Star Ferry - now this really breaks the bank. Two adults on the upper deck from Kowloon to Wan Chai? That will be HK$4.40, sir. There are 15 Hong Kong dollars to the pound. 30 pence. For two.

Cracking view, too. The skyline of Victoria Harbour is spectacular during the day, then a hub of neon at night. HK has a trick up its sleeve - at 8pm every night, the buildings put on a light and laser show. About 20 skyscrapers on both sides of the harbour are synchronised to music (broadcast on FM) for about 10 minutes. The effect is very, very cool as the lights flash, pulse and dance. It is difficult to catch it on film, but the memory of it will stay for a long time.